“Is this actually safe?” was the question uttered by a westerner friend the first time I took them for a walk around Shinjuku Golden Gai, much to my amusement. If I didn’t know better, I’d probably agree with said uneasiness. It looks sketchy and dark and it’s located next to the infamous Kabukicho to boot.
“Yep, totally safe” I said. An eclectic mixture of oddities and eccentricities lie with each storefront, asserting their own individuality and catering to a wide variety of tastes. It’s a fun place to walk around just exploring for its quirkiness even if drinking is not your thing.
Check also: 1 Day Itinerary in Tokyo: SHINJUKU & 20 Best Things to Do in Shinjuku
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What is Shinjuku Golden Gai?
Shinjuku Golden Gai (新宿ゴールデン街) is a maze of narrow alleys comprising around 280 teeny-tiny bars (and a few restaurants) within an approximate area of 6,600m2, to the east of Kabukicho. But unlike the adult-related themes from the entertainment district, it retains a very distinct personality with a Showa-era style and more bohemian and artistically inclined.
Its origins are related to the postwar black markets and underground bars and restaurants that popped up in several areas of Shinjuku. This area eventually settled with small wooden tenement buildings housing bars, many of those with a strong cultural orientation such as literary bars where many artists and writers gathered for lively discussions. Lots of acclaimed creators have been bar regulars at some point of their lives.
This way, during the past decades and until the present times, Golden Gai has played a central part as a place for subculture and alternative art, and a much-cherished remnant of nostalgic times. It retains a vibrant community that’s been actively and fiercely defending this place from the menace of urban developments, in order to maintain its very special atmosphere.
What to do at Shinjuku Golden Gai
With hundreds of small establishments, there’s a lot to see and do!
Check carefully before entering a bar
First of all, pay attention to the signs. Lots of bars in Golden Gai cater only to faithful clientele and as such, will only accept recurring customers so the only way to enter is being introduced by an existing patron. Such bars will indicate this clearly with a “members only” sign or something to that effect, so make sure you don’t enter before checking. Don’t fret, there are plenty of bars more than happy to receive foreign tourists or first time clients!
Take a leisurely walk around the alleys
Exploring the area can be almost as fun as drinking (if that’s what you’re here for) thanks to the unique style of each place. A name, a door and perhaps a few extra cm is all each bar has to compel you to enter so they will make the most of it. Amusing dolls, vintage posters, colorful windows or mysterious names.
Take your time to check each spot and become immersed in the unique atmosphere. Take into account that most bars open only during the evening! But if you prefer to go a bit earlier and see how the ambiance transitions from the afternoon to after sunset, you may find a few bars open.
Do some bar hopping
There’s almost 300 bars to choose from after all! Why limit yourself to only one? Most bars are focused on certain themes like musical styles as diverse as punk rock, death metal, jazz or even flamenco. Movie enthusiasts will probably find their groove with places dedicated to french cinema, horror movies or classic cinema. There’s even a bar with a hospital theme!