In Japan’s Kii Peninsula, the Kumano Kodo draws through the landscape, a network of ancient paths with more than a thousand years of history. This pilgrimage route, the only one in the world recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site along Spain’s Camino de Santiago, connects the natural beauty of the region with its deep spiritual heritage.
Here, emperors, warriors, and seekers have all embarked on journeys that intertwine physical endurance with spiritual questing. At the heart of these paths lie the Kumano Sanzan, the collective name for the three grand shrines that embody the fusion of Shinto and Buddhist beliefs: Kumano Hongu Taisha Hongu Taisha, Kumano Hayatama Taisha and Kumano Nachi Taisha.
Traversing the Kumano Kodo is an exciting experience that allows travelers to explore the scenic vistas as well as the traditions and rituals that have been part of the Japanese way of life for centuries.
Understanding the Kumano Kodo
The ancient paths through the Kii Peninsula represent a living tradition that gives insight into Japan’s syncretic relationship between Shinto and Buddhist beliefs, as well as the ascetic spiritual practices deeply rooted in the region.
Shugendo: The Practice of Asceticism in the Mountains
Shugendo (修験道), an indigenous Japanese faith that combines elements of Shinto, Buddhism, and Taoism, plays a significant role in the spiritual heritage of the Kumano Kodo. This practice emphasizes a physical and spiritual journey through the mountains, seeking enlightenment through nature. The rugged terrain of the Kii Peninsula, with its dense forests and steep slopes, are believed to provide the perfect setting for the ascetic practices of Shugendo, where practitioners, known as yamabushi, engage in rigorous rituals to connect with the natural and spiritual worlds.
The Kumano Deities: A Synthesis of Shinto and Buddhism
At the heart of the Kumano Kodo’s spiritual significance are the Kumano deities, revered in both Shinto and Buddhism. These deities, associated with the three grand shrines of Kumano, embody the region’s syncretic religious traditions, where ancient Shinto gods and Buddhas are seen as manifestations of the same divine essence. Pilgrims on the Kumano Kodo encounter along the way various symbols, rituals, and festivals that celebrate these beliefs.
Exploring the Kumano Kodo Routes
The Kumano Kodo consists of a network of trails, each with its distinct journey through. These routes vary in character, offering diverse challenges and insights into the region’s rich history and natural beauty.
Nakahechi Route: The Imperial Road
Also known as the Imperial Route, the Nakahechi Route (中辺路) was favored by Japanese emperors on their pilgrimages. It’s considered the easier one so it’s the most popular route, covering the path from the mountain outskirts of Tanabe City to the grand Kumano Hongu Taisha Shrine Hongu Taisha Shrine and then circling to the other two shrines, covering a distance of about 70 Km.
Takijiri-oji to Tsugizakura-oji
Takijiri-oji Shrine is a popular starting spot, next to the Kumano Kodo Information Center, as the western gateway to the sacred sites. The path from Takijiri-oji to Tsugizakura-oji is about 17 Km long and can be done in a day, although some may choose to break it down in smaller sections. There are lodgings and restaurants along the route as well as local buses running between Kii-Tanabe and Chikatsuyu. From this point to Tsugizakura-oji there are stone paved sections.
Tsugizakura-oji to Kumano Hongu Taisha Hongu Taisha
This leg of the journey is about 20 Km, with natural mountain trails, forest trails and some paved roads. Bear in mind you won’t find restaurants on this section so make sure to bring food. As it has less infrastructure than the previous section, we can enjoy tranquil paths, roads along creeks and the occasional waterfall, culminating in the majestic presence of Kumano Hongu Taisha Hongu Taisha.
From Hongu Taisha to Nachi Taisha y Hayatama Taisha
The hike from Hongu to Nachi typically takes two days, with the first section covering from Hongu to Koguchi village and then, from there to Nachi on the second day. There are no restaurants on these sections so you have to bring your own food.
Hayatama Taisha from Nachi Taisha or Hongu Taisha
Kumano Hayatama Taisha can be reached from Nachi Taisha over a 20Km route that can be covered in a day or less, for those opting for taking the train from Nachi station to Shingu station. There’s also an alternate route from Hongu Taisha that involves a combination of bus with a boat ride along the Kumano River.
Kohechi Route: The Mountain Pilgrim’s Trail
The Kohechi Route (小辺路) connects the sacred sites of Koyasan in the north to Kumano Sanzan in the south, cutting through the heart of the Kii Peninsula’s rugged mountains for about 70 Km. This path is known for its challenging terrain, so it’s generally chosen by more experienced hikers. The higher difficulty’s payoff are the breathtaking vistas of mostly untouched wilderness, contrasting the more traveled Nakahechi Route. It typically takes 4 days. Bear in mind the altitude variations might mean important changes in climate along the way depending on the season so it’s best to be prepared.
Main sections
Koyasan – Omata: About 17 Km, around 7h walking.
Omata – Miura guchi: About 15 Km, around 7h walking.
Miura guchi – Totsukawa Onsen: About 18 Km, around 8h walking.
Totsukawa Onsen – Hongu Taisha: About 15 Km, around 8h walking.