5 Days Itinerary in Tohoku with JR EAST PASS
Exploring some uncharted corners in Tohoku: Yamagata, Akita and Fukushima
Tokyo may be the beating heart of Japan, but for those with a penchant for the road less traveled, the allure of Tohoku is irresistible.
When I first set foot in the bustling metropolis of Tokyo, I made a pact with myself: I would venture into every single prefecture of Japan. A lofty goal, perhaps, but one that led me to the untamed landscapes and rich cultural pockets of Aomori, Miyagi, and Iwate. Yet, the Tohoku region still had more to reveal—Akita, Yamagata, and Fukushima beckoned, and I answered the call.
Armed with a JR East Pass, I had a golden ticket to explore these lesser-known gems for five days. The clock was ticking, and the stakes were high. How many treasures could I uncover within the confines of a five-day itinerary? What follows is a chronicle of that unforgettable journey through the scenic landscapes, culinary wonders, and cultural marvels of Akita, Yamagata, and Fukushima.
Oh, and some dumb mistakes so you can learn from my experience. Or not, because haphazard discovery is fun and careful planning is for cowards, yo.
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Day 1: Tokyo to Yamagata
The first leg of my journey kicked off from Tokyo to Yamagata Station via the Yamagata Shinkansen. From there, I took a local train to Yamadera Station. Yamadera was a place that had been sitting pretty on my bucket list, daring me to conquer its more than 1,000 steps.
The weather wasn’t exactly on my side—clouds loomed ominously—but the silver lining was a mystical mist that enveloped the mountain, creating an ethereal atmosphere.
The Mystique of Yamadera
Yamadera (山寺), or “Mountain Temple,” is a spiritual sanctuary that has stood the test of time, as one of the region’s most scenic spots.
Founded in 860 AD by the revered monk Jikaku Daishi Ennin, this temple complex is an important site for the Tendai school of Buddhism. The temple is officially known as Risshakuji (立石寺) and is dedicated to the Buddhist deity Yakushi Nyorai, the Medicine Buddha. The temple’s location, perched high on a cliff, is no accident. It’s said that the mountain’s natural energy enhances the power of meditation, a belief that has attracted monks and pilgrims for over a millennium.
The ascent to the temple is a spiritual journey in itself, with each step symbolizing a move away from the earthly realm and closer to enlightenment.
With the temple’s rich history in mind, I began my ascent. The climb was a modest challenge, as I had recently conquered Mount Fuji. But each step was a meditation, a small pilgrimage in the grander journey of life.
The mist that had settled around the mountain seemed to whisper ancient secrets, adding a layer of mystique to the experience.
Once at the top, the view was nothing short of breathtaking. The temple structures, aged by time but dignified, stood in harmony with the mountain that cradled them.
It was a sight to behold, a moment where nature and spirituality converged into a singular, awe-inspiring experience. I ended up lingering for longer than I was supposed to, as the panorama before me was too compelling. Time seemed to slow as I took in the vistas while trying my best to capture the beauty of the place with my camera.
▽More information about Yamadera▽
▶Yamadera: Risshakuji Temple in Yamagata
A Word to the Wise: Timing is Everything
For those planning a similar journey, a word of caution: train schedules in rural Japan are not as forgiving as in Tokyo.
As I lost the train I intended to take, I had a bit more time to spare, so I meandered around Yamadera Station. My original plan was to make it to Ginzan Onsen by bus in time for the sunset, but the shorter days of autumn had other plans.
I had to reschedule that experience for the next day, a small hiccup in an otherwise seamless adventure.
Yamagata City: Where Modernity Meets Tradition
After the spiritually enriching experience at Yamadera, it was time to head back to Yamagata City.
We checked into our hotel, and let me tell you, the location was a jackpot. I had chosen the Washington Hotel Yamagata Ekinishiguchi simply for the convenience of its location right next to the station. But I hadn’t realized it was also located in the tallest tower in the city, offering a bird’s-eye view of Yamagata, turning the skyline into a twinkling sea of lights as night fell.
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Yamagata City is relatively quiet, the area around the station however was a hive of activity, as if the city had a split personality: one that cherished the calm and another that thrived on the buzz. We decided to explore both, starting with a leisurely stroll around the quieter parts before diving into the bustling station area. Note to self: don’t expect all public parks to be lit at night.
Karamiso Ramen, Yamagata’s Signature Dish
As someone who considers ramen not just a dish but a lifestyle, I had high expectations for Yamagata’s local specialty—Karamiso Ramen (辛味噌ラーメン). And let me tell you, it did not disappoint. The spicy miso ramen was the culinary equivalent of a warm hug on a chilly autumn night.
The creamy broth and thick noodles were a match made in gastronomic heaven, providing the perfect end to an already fulfilling day.